Carl F Bucherer Manero Collection – Baselworld 2014 Novelties
While in Basel we were visiting many different brands so that we could get as much coverage as possible; visiting Carl F Bucherer however really was a trip to remember – starting from the beautiful novelties the brand had to offer and to the design of the booth and the terrace (about which we’ll talk next time). Our favourite collection from the brand this year is Manero – keeping the look very elegant and clean (perfect for a dress watch) as well as adding on various complication from date to perpetual calendar, tourbillon and even a peripheral rotor. To start with let’s take a look at the entry-level model that still catches an eye of many – the Manero AutoDate.
Names of the models in this collection will be pretty self-explanatory, but I’ll still give you a brief description of each watch – what you see here is an 18K rose gold 42mm casing housing an automatic movement ‘CFB 1950’ and displaying running time (seconds, minutes, hours) as well as a date at 3 o’clock. The watch also exists in many different variations starting from all steel on a bracelet and to gold on a leather alligator strap.
Moving to a rather more complicated piece – the Manero ‘Power Reserve’. Now here I think the name doesn’t really do the watch justice because even though power reserve is higher than average (55 hours) and you can see the indicator of this function on the dial at 3 o’clock you can also notice that the CFB A1011 movement displays the date and day of the week, so apart from power reserve it’s also a calendar. But that’s not even all – Carl F Bucherer introduces a new type of automatic movement for this (and some other pieces from Patravi collection) that features a peripheral rotor (see the case back photo). Peripheral rotor has the same purpose as a usual rotor – to automatically wind your wristwatch, but in this case it doesn’t take half of the case back thus allowing you to see the entire movement. And just like the AutoDate the casing measures 42mm and is available in gold or steel.
And for the ones who like it really complex here’s our personal favourite – the Manero ChronoPerpetual. With an automatic movement (CFB 1904) it features a flyback chronograph, a complete perpetual calendar, moon phase indicator and a power reserve of 50 hours, all in the same 42mm casing you’ve seen in the 2 previous models.
Now, that you’ve seen the piece let’s explore the dial a little: main time is of course displayed by the centred hours and minutes, as well as a small seconds subdial at 12 o’clock. As for the chronograph seconds are displayed with a thin centred hand while minutes and hours are off centred at 9 and 6 o’clock in sub-subdials Moon phase has a very clear and traditional indication at 3 o’clock, but what really completes the look is the perpetual calendar. You can see the date hand at 12 o’clock with a very unusual oval sub-dial, while day of the week is displayed opposite at 6 o’clock. Months are displayed at 9 and you can even see the leap year if you look closely through the month and chronograph minute indication. The watch is truly amazing and it is not every day that you get to see a perpetual calendar-chronograph made right.
That brings us to the BIG piece in the collection – the Manero Tourbillon. Full name also tells you that it is a limited edition, which usually isn’t very important but underlined here simply because the number it’s limited to is significant to the brand – 188 years has passed since the foundation of Carl F Bucherer, and it only makes sense for such a mechanically and artistically fascinating timepiece to represent the significance of the date.
A little about the watch itself – it’s a manual wind (CFB T1001) with a power reserve of 70 hours and an indicator at 9 o’clock. Apart from that indication we also see the 24 hours wheel at 12 and a big centred date hand that goes around the dial. However the main focus of the watch is of course on the beautiful tourbillon escapement located at 6 o’clock. We think that the rose gold and black is a very nice colour scheme for the model however it also exists with gold and white dial combo (on a brown strap), with each series being limited to 188 pieces.
Thank you for reading the article, I hope you’ve enjoyed it and will come back next time to see the second part of our visit to Carl F Bucherer, where we’ll talk about the Patravi collection as well as tell you about our experience at the CFB terrace
Photos for WatchAnish.com by James Cole and Adam Priscak.